![]() ![]() All you have to do now is turn your SSF dial up until the sub cone is moving about half as much as it was when you started and your SSF is set PROPERLY. ![]() ![]() Now, change to a frequency that is 3hz to 5hz lower than the real tuning frequency of your enclosure and turn it up enough to really (and safely) get the sub cone moving good so it's easy to see. Lots of things that get missed in calculations, cuts, and construction can affect the final tuning frequency, it's no big deal. If it happens to match the target frequency then great, if it doesn't don't be surprised. THAT frequency is the REAL tuning frequency of your enclosure. Back up and go back and forth a few hz until you're sure which frequency the sub was moving the least amount. Watch for the sub to move the least amount and then start moving more again and at that point you've actually gone below your tuning frequency. Now, start changing frequencies one at a time down toward your target tuning frequency and watch the cone movement on the sub. Start with a tone that's about 10hz higher than your target tuning frequency and turn it up enough to get the sub moving very noticeably. Before you start, turn your SSF all the way down so it's not interfering with this procedure. Those or a tone generator on your phone, tablet, or as a piece of test equipment. There's a simple way to set the SSF using some test tones, and not that retarded CC1, that will be far more accurate.įirst off, get yourself a set of test tones that covers your target tuning frequency +/- 15hz at least, a full set is handy to have on hand period. However, just because someone tells you the enclosure is tuned to 35hz, or that's what the calculator said when you designed it, doesn't mean that's exactly what it's tuned to. You typically want to set the SSF 3-5hz below the tuning frequency of the enclosure. ![]()
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