![]() ![]() Next I start hitting the pustules with Averland Sunset. I want these to be bright on the final model but I’m gonna cover them with Nurgle’s Rot, which will tint them green so I need them to be bright yellow. I’ll also add a bit of Coelia Greenshade where I want more green hues. These go on haphazardly, but I’ll pool around the sores and add streaks in key places like below open sores and wounds to give it the skin a stained appearance from whatever was seeping out. I cover the model in liberal coats of Agrax Earthshade and Reikland Fleshshade to tint the skin and give it more color depth. Because the skin has lots of folds and wrinkles, it’s more forgiving for this process, and we’re going to cover the rest later on to make the drybrushing work less visible.Īfter I lay down these colors, it’s time for shading. Then I drybrushed that with several layers of Death World Forest, Death Guard Green, and Ogryn Camo, working my way upward and making sure I hit higher parts of the model with lighter colors. After that I laid down a base coat of Castellan Green, then washed it with Nuln Oil and drybrushed it with Castellan Green again. The process starts by priming the model with Abaddon Black. Always prime black. Recently, I’ve started fleshing them out into their own army and really taking on some of the bigger models they have to offer, which meant painting my Great Unclean One. I started painting Nurgle Daemons to accompany my Death Guard. ![]() We’ll talk about a few different ways to paint them, but ultimately the big things you’re going to have to figure out are how you handle grime and snot on your minis. Nurgle Daemons are perfect for a new painter – They offer a ton of variety, but they’re very forgiving and take to Contrast paint very well. We haven’t covered Nurgle forces in Age of Sigmar yet, but stay tuned for that.
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